Sometimes, you just need to go wild. I’m sure every one of us has a favorite outdoor spot, for whatever reasons are near and dear to us. Mine is the South Fork of the Hoh River on the west end of the Olympic Peninsula. Why is it my very favorite spot above all others in the world? Because it is so wild. This remote trail receives little traffic compared to the rest of the Olympic National Park because it provides no access to the high country and breathtaking mountain peaks. It terminates after about three miles, becoming a bushwhacking way trail from that point on, disappearing into the rich, lush temperate rain forest. The result is a place off the beaten path, that is easy to have all to yourself save the wildlife. Just my kind of place. I’ve been visiting for about 15 years and am always happy to go back.
I was born and raised on the north Olympic Peninsula, and fortunate enough to grow up backpacking all over the Olympic National Park. Over our spring break, the kids were going on a trip with their grandparents and I decided to give my partner a tour of my home ground. We planned our trip starting off on the West end with a backpacking trip up the South Fork Hoh, traveling around the top of the Peninsula visiting some favorite places and friends and coming back along the Hood Canal. As some of you may know, Washington weather in March is iffy at best, but this is a great time to see wildlife, waterfalls, and some very lush moss. It’s also a time where you can count on some peaceful solitude on trails that get heavy summer traffic. I have enjoyed this trail in November, December and January in years past. The last time I visited was in June two years ago, backpacking on my own with three kids. We braved heavy rains, moving our tent due to rising water levels, and I even chased off a bear! It was a very wild adventure, which you can read about here:
While the Main Fork Hoh trail is a well known destination, with a Park Visitors Center and the Hall of Mosses Trail, the South Fork has just as many giant, old-growth trees and just as impressive temperate rain forest vegetation. We enjoyed the peaceful hike weaving in and out between these towering giants, and only ran across one couple on a day hike. There were no signs of bear this early in the Spring, but plenty of elk signs.
The red huckleberry bushes were in flower, hanging with delicate bell-like blossoms, and birds were singing their spring songs.
It wasn’t overcast, which was a great treat, and we were able to see Hoh Peak as the trail popped out along the river from time to time. It was a sight for sore eyes. We followed the trail to where it ended and bushwhacked another half mile or so until we found a big log to cross a side channel out onto an alder flat to look for a good campsite.
We got our camp set up and eventually got an alder wood campfire going. It took a while with things being damp, but we persevered. We had elk for neighbors and found fresh scat and tracks everywhere. They were cautious but curious, and hung back at the edge of the woods watching us gather wood and cook dinner. I enjoyed hearing their high pitched bugle in the early morning darkness.
It rained through the night, but stopped by morning and we were able to watch a glorious sunrise over Hoh peak. It ended up being one of the nicest, sunniest days I have had up there in at least a decade.
As the early morning mist burned off on the river, we meandered up the gravel bar from our campsite to explore a little. I would have been happy to spend the whole day wandering around the river bars forested flats and stay another night, but we were visiting a friend whose only day off during the trip was the following day, and I didn’t want to miss that. We sat in the sun along the river for a little while, and packed up camp for the hike out. I left feeling rejuvenated and recharged by my favorite wild place, and happy to share it with my partner on such a beautiful, fair weather day. The more I visit, the more intrigued I am to go exploring up the river to the headwaters. It’s a good feeling to know that this is a wild place I will always come back to. I need a little wildness from time to time.
Thank you – just exquisite!!!